While I'm going on about how great today is, I also wanna say that I'm falling in love for the 1st time all over again: with shortboards! I LOVE THEM again! I used to hate them. Starting May 16, 2003. I was coming back from a couple weeks surfing in Costa Rica. The problem was that I had needs and wants, and the shortboard wasn't fulfilling them. Not only that, but I wanted a board not every yahoo is riding, and something that lended itself to another surf style. Simply put: I wanted to be with other boards. So we split and I was on the fish kick for 3 years. A couple weeks ago, I randomly got back together with the shortboard, and something clicked. I love it again! We're getting along great! I don't understand why. Maybe my needs changed? Maybe I'm more experienced as a surfer? Maybe I don't need what the fishes were giving me anymore? And secretly, I liked coming back to a familar board. Plus I scoped some punk rock chicks at the beach eyeing the skull. Lovin' that bonus.
Sunday, November 12, 2006
Falling In Love For The 1st Time All Over Again
While I'm going on about how great today is, I also wanna say that I'm falling in love for the 1st time all over again: with shortboards! I LOVE THEM again! I used to hate them. Starting May 16, 2003. I was coming back from a couple weeks surfing in Costa Rica. The problem was that I had needs and wants, and the shortboard wasn't fulfilling them. Not only that, but I wanted a board not every yahoo is riding, and something that lended itself to another surf style. Simply put: I wanted to be with other boards. So we split and I was on the fish kick for 3 years. A couple weeks ago, I randomly got back together with the shortboard, and something clicked. I love it again! We're getting along great! I don't understand why. Maybe my needs changed? Maybe I'm more experienced as a surfer? Maybe I don't need what the fishes were giving me anymore? And secretly, I liked coming back to a familar board. Plus I scoped some punk rock chicks at the beach eyeing the skull. Lovin' that bonus.
Nice B... As I read this Im listening to Astrud Gilberto's "Insensatez", about a love afair that is over, and then returns... How perfect can a moment be? Enjoy the skull...
ReplyDeletesounds like a good sunday to me.
ReplyDeletehonestly... i think shortboards are far more challenging. everything i can do on a long board, i could never do on a small board and i've always wanted to be a small board surfer (at the time when i was into surfing). most of the surfers i know... are long boarders and they're all hot!
ReplyDeletewhere the heck r ya B?
ReplyDelete