Tuesday, October 24, 2006

Kookie Monster

It's been a fairly bad week for waves. I mean, sure, we're getting some decent swell size here in San Diego. But we all know that size doesn't matter. It's the shape. The biggest wave in the world isn't surfable if it's a closeout, which has been the majority of this swell. Is it too much to ask for a wave with a shoulder? Is it? I'm a big fan of scratching for the outside, catching the 1st wave of a set, then having the set not be it's normal 3 waves, but TWELVE. I love taking 11 waves right on the head. It's awesome. And if you can't sense my sarcasm, well you should. It's dripping from my lips. That and carnitas. I'm also kinda pissed 'cause I've been kooking out these last couple days, too. Plain not surfing well. Added to which, I got pitched on a backhand wave today, and took a rad fin slash to my finger. Thank god the bone stopped the fin from making me a 9 fingered sloth. Dang thing won't stop bleeding, either. Here's a pic of Automaton's South American connection (and distributor), Ariel Cifuentes, NOT kooking out on a spring-time drop in Chile. And no, he didn't eat rock.

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